Balls of Steel and an Iron Butt - Prelude to a Winter ride to Spiti Valley

Ever since I rode to Ladakh in July 2017, people kept on asking me what is it that draws me there year after year. Kashmir has (and probably always will be) been the place I always turn to, to revitalize and rediscover myself. Then someone asked if I had been to Spiti Valley. In all fairness, till November 2017, all I knew about Spiti Valley was that it is as picturesque as Ladakh is, if not more. Pretty naïve I know!

The more I started reading about this region, the more I came to terms with the magnificence of this region. From its snow-capped mountains and beautiful monasteries perched over a barren landscape to pristine lakes and some of the world's highest villages tucked in the lap of the Himalayas, Spiti Valley seemed breathtaking from pictures. Add the rare wildlife, culture, and cuisine and you quickly realize Spiti Valley has something for everyone. 

The adventure-seeker in me since then desperately wanted to bike my way till Spiti to explore the beauty of this Trans-Himalayan region, called as "a world within a world" and embrace the wilderness at altitudes of up to 4500 meters above sea level. 

I guess my heart got the better of my mind and a winter motorcycle expedition to Spiti Valley was not only planned, it was definitely happening when a fellow Versys rider from Bangalore, Abishek Venkatesh, pitched the idea of a winter ride. Flights to Chandigarh were booked, motorcycles were finalized and a 10 day plan (8 day ride + 2 buffer days) was made in no time! If everything went right, this was going to be a once in a lifetime journey (I know I say this often, but I cannot help it if every ride becomes a once in a lifetime journey! :P)

Crazy excitement as I land in Chandigarh!

A lot of people make you believe that this region is inaccessible in the winters but if you are iron-hearted and have the will to face the bone-chilling cold, this is the best time to visit. There is hardly anyone around and you have the entire region to yourself. It is the perfect time to see the life in Spiti as it has existed for several centuries- when life comes to a complete standstill as temperatures plummet to -25 degrees Celcius. Spiti valley is primarily thought of as a summer destination that offers incredible vistas but winters are beyond mesmerizing - it is a sea of white as far as your eyes can behold! 

Getting to Spiti Valley in Winter 

The entire Spiti region, bordered by Tibet in the east, Ladakh to the north, Kinnaur to the south-east and Lahaul valley and Kullu to the south, is a cold desert mountain valley situated at an altitude of around 4000-5000 meters above sea level. 

Travel from Manali isn’t possible in the winters because Rohtang La and Kunzum La, two high altitude mountain passes close around mid-October and only open by mid-May on account of heavy snowfall. The only possible way to reach Spiti is by road from Shimla via NH-505 crossing Kinnaur. 

The road from Shimla to Kaza is kept open throughout the year and is shut (anywhere from a few hours to a couple of days) only in case of heavy snowfall between Tabo and Kaza.

What you MUST carry

1. Sunglasses - a must to protect you from the reflection of the snow, the sun’s glare is unusually high in Spiti
2. Sunscreen – It is advisable to apply sunscreen generously because the sun’s rays are sharp (I never used them though!)
3. Flask- Water in bottles is bound to freeze; hence, carrying warm water in a flask is advisable. It is extremely important to stay hydrated by drinking lots of water at regular intervals
4. Energy bars – Protein bars, dry fruits and dark chocolates are highly recommended to maintain energy levels
5. Winter clothing – You will DIE if you do not carry appropriate clothes. The thumb rule is to dress in layers- typically two layers of thermal inners, two layers of shirts/t-shirts and your riding jacket with a thermal liner to be worn above all this. It is also recommended to carry a raincoat
6. Footwear – Woolen socks and good waterproof shoes that can withstand sub-zero temperatures 

Itinerary

Although we knew things can always go wrong in the winters and no planning can help, we chalked out an itinerary. The originally planned itinerary had to be improvised during the ride owing to weather and road conditions, so the route that you see below is the one we took while on the ride. Though we initially planned to return via Narkanda itself, we returned via Jalori Top (more about that later ;-) ) It is best to think practically and live on a day to day basis, but this what we followed:

Day 1 – Chandigarh – Narkanda – Kumarsain (200 km)
Day 2 – Kumarsain – Rampur – Sarahan - Sangla (175 km)
Day 3- Sangla – Rakchham – Chitkul – Pooh (160 km)
Day 4- Pooh – Khab – Nako – Tabo – Gue – Dhankar – Kaza (210 km)
Day 5- Kaza – Key – Kibber – Hikkim – Komic – Langza – Tabo (140 km)
Day 6- Tabo – Spillow – Kalpa – Reckong Peo (200 km)
Day 7- Reckong Peo – Jalori Pass – Jibhi (220 km)
Day 8- Jibhi – Kullu- Mandi – Bilaspur – Kirtpur Sahib – Chandigarh (270 km)

Now that I am back safe, I must admit that Spiti Valley indeed is special- a perfect and gracious blend of Indian and Tibetan culture. Want to find out why?

Stay tuned as I walk you through each day of our ride, starting from Chandigarh, complete with the smallest details and tell you how Spiti valley managed to occupy a permanent place in my heart!